This means that before each print you'll need to ensure both filaments are retracted about 1cm into the Bowden tube. Attempting to push the other filament in at the same time doesn't work, and you'll hear the extruders clicking as the filament jams. Unlike some printers, the Sc-10 Shark can't mix colors. Out of the box, manual leveling works just fine. So despite being an inexpensive upgrade, I just wouldn't bother with the auto-leveler. The PINDA inductive probe method used by Prusa is more reliable and is able to adjust for all manner of warped beds without any manual intervention. This is the first time I've used a 3D Touch probe, and I hope it's the last. Which again, involves the manual dials underneath the bed. But every time using the auto-leveler, I found I needed to tweak it slightly. If you've manually leveled the bed anyway, this generally isn't needed, since it's already tuned to a paper thickness. Live Z-adjustment means that you can move the print head up and down even when the print process has started, so it's easy to back off or add a little more squish for the first layer, as needed. After much experimentation, I found the BLTouch seemingly requires the print bed to be manually leveled first, which somewhat defeats the purpose of an auto-leveling mechanism.Īt this point, I was also frustrated with the lack of live Z-adjustment. Though I did manage to get one successful print having installed the auto-leveler, subsequent attempts sent the print head crashing into the bed.

How to make sharks 3d around on a mac